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20041222日        导读

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2004年12月

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1、韩国求购涤纶丝
2、印度求购纱线
3、巴基斯坦求购纺织用化工原料
4、美国求购库存服装
5、英国求购军用服装
6、Pakistan faces labour law problems as end of textile quotas looms
7、Textile center has new chief
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Pakistan faces labour law problems as end of textile quotas looms
Pakistan's vital textile industry could suffer from the imminent end of import quotas as international rivals seek to exploit the country's widespread disregard for labour and environment laws, analysts say. 

Quotas on textiles, the mainstay of Pakistan's 12-billion-dollar exports, finish at the end of the year under a 1994 agreement. They ensured that developing countries had access to the key European Union (news - web sites) and US markets. 

But while industry figures expect Pakistan to see some benefits from free trade, they say strict World Trade Organisation (WTO) laws starting in 2006 could allow China and India to cause a fuss about Pakistani working practices. 

"We are faced with a make-or-break situation in the next couple of years," said leading exporter Anjum Salim, who is the former chairman of the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association. 

China, the world's largest exporter of clothing with a 28 percent share of the market, is expected to be the main winner from the disappearance of quotas. 

India and Pakistan also stand to benefit because of their large domestic markets, Jean-Paul Sajhau, head of textiles and clothing at the International Labor Organisation, said recently. 

However Pakistan -- which relies on textiles for about 67 percent of its total exports or over 11 percent of the Gross Domestic Product -- could face a rockier road, according to insiders. 

"With the end of the 30-year quota regime, cut-throat competition would induce every stakeholder to take advantage of the weaknesses of its rivals," said Faisal Shaji, textile analyst at First Capital Equities. 

"Pakistan's traditional business rivals like India or other textile exporting countries could lodge complaints against Pakistan over its violative textile manufacturing practices with regard to labour, environmental or other laws," he said. 

In the short term, Pakistani exporters of ready-made textiles are counting on gains. 

"We see a jump of 15 to 20 percent in our garment exports after the tariff barriers are done away with," said Dawood Usman Jakhora, chairman of the Pakistan Ready-made Garment Manufacturers Association. 

Such garments account for over one billion of the total eight-billion-dollar textile exports. 

But many smaller textile mills, which make up the majority of Pakistan's exports, do not comply with international environment and labour laws and could face a setback after 2006, exporter Salim said. 

Pakistani millers have invested heavily over the past four years to meet world quality standards and become more competitive but they remain deficient in the fields covered by the WTO rules. 

"We could witness a good increase in our textile exports to the EU and the US markets in the first year of free trade but may face a slow-down afterwards," Salim added. The US and EU cumulatively import over 56 per cent of Pakistani textile products. 

With about 10 million spindles and thousands of dyeing and bleaching textile units across the country, government agencies are finding it hard to gather data. 

"By my rough estimate, 20 percent of textile units, which are mostly bigger industrial groups, are taking care of environmental protection measures," said Irfanullah Tunio, deputy director of the Environment Protection Agency in southern Sindh Province. 

Labour laws also remain an area of concern and Pakistani authorities, although not oblivious to the challenges of the WTO regime, are still not doing enough, analysts maintain. 

"We have the best legislative framework in the South Asian region with regard to labour rights but unfortunately no effective entity exists to get them implemented, making laborers' lives ever more miserable," Pakistan Institute of Labour Education and Research director Sharafat Ali said. 

But planners attach hopes to an Asian Development Bank funded programme, which is expected to ensure labour rights in the medium term. 
Textile center has new chief
The state Board of Community Colleges has announced a change in leadership at the N.C. Center for Applied Textile Technology that will lead the center as it reorganizes.

The board appointed Gwen Perkins, dean of the center's business support services division, as interim director. Perkins replaces former President Jim Lemons, who retired Nov. 30 after 20 years of leading the center. His presidency became clouded with controversy in the last two years.

State audits found that the center had significantly low enrollment and empty classrooms at its site on Wilkinson Boulevard in Belmont. The audits also raised questions about Lemons' off-campus teaching at UNC Charlotte and Belmont Abbey College during center hours.

Perkins' appointment is retroactive to Dec. 1, when she started leading the institution. She could receive up to a 10 percent increase to her salary, which is about $70,000. But that raise will be up to the center's board of trustees, state officials said.

The state eliminated the position of center president when Lemons retired, so Perkins has the title of director. The position was eliminated because the center is likely to become a part of Gaston College.

That means Perkins' pay will be lower than the average community college president and more in line with a department chairman position at Gaston College, state officials said. Lemons' annual salary was about $125,000.

Perkins could not be reached for comment Tuesday.

The textile center was established in 1943 as the N.C. Vocational Textile School. In 1991, it became the N.C. Center for Applied Textile Technology.

A 2003 study by the state auditor's office found that the textile center did not make good use of its space and had too few students enrolled.

State community college officials then requested a financial audit to examine Lemons' off-campus teaching at UNC Charlotte and Belmont Abbey College during center hours.

The report said Lemons' off-campus work created the appearance of a conflict of interest and recommended that he end his secondary employment. Lemons, who stopped working the other jobs last December, denied any wrongdoing.

The same report also recommended that the General Assembly evaluate the textile center's role in the state's community college system. While the system's 58 community colleges are accredited, the center is not.

N.C. Rep. Debbie Clary, a Cherryville Republican, proposed in May that the center's budget be cut by $62,500, or half of Lemons' salary, and the center be reorganized. The changes were included in a 2004-05 budget bill that was approved, according to state officials.

"It was a message from the General Assembly that you cannot have two full-time state jobs in the state of North Carolina," Clary said. He would argue that it wasn't a full-time job, but he made $42,000 per year."

Clary said the audit also found that Lemons taught four days a week at UNC Charlotte. The center was only open four days a week, she said.

Clary has said she would like to fold the center into Gaston College. State officials said that's a likely scenario.

Gaston College President Pat Skinner could not be reached for comment Tuesday.

The center has a $1.5 million annual budget and is overseen by the state. Proposed changes would give the county more control of the center.

The new center likely will be modeled after Hickory's Hosiery Technology Center at Catawba Valley Community College, said Audrey Bailey, spokeswoman for the state Board of Community Colleges.

The state is requiring a group of Gaston County officials including center trustees, county commissioners, a representative of the textile industry and Gaston College officials to meet and decide how the textile center should operate. Bailey said she did not know whether the group had met.

State officials hope to have a recommendation next month, Bailey said.

Clary said taxpayers can expect changes at the center in the coming year.

"There will be real students on the campus. The buildings will be used and the taxpayers will get their money's worth out of that facility," she said.
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